Your Questions Answered

A typical room takes one to two days, including finishing. Bigger floors and any repairs take a little longer, and we confirm the timeline with your fixed quote.

Far less than you might expect. Our dust-free sanding systems capture around 99% of dust at source, so there is almost nothing to clean afterwards. We also sheet off doorways and protect adjoining rooms before we start.

We visit for free, look at the floor and give you a fixed written quote. There are no surprises on the day, unless you ask us to add extra work. You can request a quote online at any time.

We are fully insured with £5m public liability cover. Certificates are available on request, which schools, churches and landlords often need before work starts.

Every floor restoration is covered by our 3-month service guarantee. If something is not right with our workmanship during those three months, we come back and put it right. Gap filling is excluded, because wooden floors move with the seasons — see our service guarantee for the full terms.

No. We work room by room, and most customers stay at home throughout. Our water-based lacquers and low-VOC oils have very little odour, so day-to-day life carries on.

Light foot traffic in socks is usually fine after a few hours. Furniture can go back after 24–48 hours, and rugs after about a week while the finish fully cures.

Our team works across Kingston and the neighbouring towns and villages. If you are just outside the area, send us a message — we can usually help for larger jobs.

Parquet runs in several directions, so we sand it in stages at different angles. A final pass with a fine-grit buffer removes swirl marks and leaves a flat, smooth surface.

Many older parquet floors were laid on bitumen adhesive. It does not stop us restoring the floor, but loose blocks need cleaning back and re-fixing with a compatible adhesive. We look at it at the survey and include it in the quote.

We fill narrow gaps with a resin and wood-dust mix that matches the boards. Larger gaps are best filled with tapered pine slivers, glued and planed flush. Our gap filling guide compares the two.

Gap filling is excluded from our service guarantee. Wooden floors expand and shrink with the seasons and with movement in the building, which can open small cracks in the filler. We use the most suitable method for your floor to keep this to a minimum.

It usually makes a real difference. Gaps between floorboards let draughts rise from under the floor. Filling them makes rooms cosier and helps keep dust out.

We do. After sanding we apply test patches on your timber so you can see how each shade looks in your light before we commit. Find out more about wood floor staining.

Every timber takes stain differently. Sample cards are only a rough guide, so testing on the sanded floor is the only reliable way to choose.

We strip and restore staircases, including treads, risers and handrails. Sanding stairs is detailed hand work, and we finish them with a durable finish that copes with daily use. See stairs stripping and restoration.

Usually, yes. We finish alternate treads so you can still get up and down, then complete the rest the following day. We agree the plan with you before we start.

Most staircases take two to three days from stripping to final coat. Lots of paint layers or turned balusters can add a little time, which we include in your quote.

We regularly work during holidays, evenings and weekends. Most halls are finished in a few days, so disruption is kept to a minimum.

Yes. After sanding we apply a slip-resistant sports lacquer and can repaint court markings for badminton, netball and other games between coats so they are sealed in. Read more about our school floor restoration.

We provide risk assessments, method statements and insurance details before work begins. Our team is used to working on occupied sites with strict safety rules.

We can work evenings, nights and weekends so the office stays open. Our dust-free machines and water-based lacquers mean minimal disruption to your team.

We have restored many church and community hall floors. We treat older floors with care and choose finishes suited to busy halls. See churches and community halls.

Prices depend on the floor area, condition, repairs needed and the finish you choose. Our price list shows typical starting prices, and the free survey gives you a fixed written quote.

Often, yes. Photos of the floor plus rough measurements let us give a guide price quickly. We confirm it with a short visit before work starts, so the final quote is fixed.

Hardwax oil gives a natural, matt look and can be refreshed in patches. Lacquer forms a tougher surface layer that copes well with spills and busy households. We recommend the right one at the survey — or read our guide to oil and lacquer.

Yes. We use low-VOC oils and water-based lacquers that are safe for families and pets once cured. Keep pets off the floor for the first 24 hours, and trim claws to help the finish last.

Oiled floors normally get two coats, and lacquered floors three. Busy hallways and commercial floors can have an extra coat for added protection.

Usually, if the wear layer is at least 3 mm thick. We check the wear layer during the free survey, often by lifting a threshold strip or a floor vent. Our guide to sanding engineered floors explains more.

Solid timber floors can be sanded again and again. Each sand removes only a fraction of a millimetre when done properly, so a well-kept floor will last generations.

In nearly every case, yes. We re-glue loose blocks, replace missing ones with matched or reclaimed timber, then sand and finish the whole floor for an even, seamless look. Find out more about parquet floor repairs.

Yes — original boards often hide beautiful timber under old paint and varnish. We punch down nails, replace split boards and sand back to fresh timber. Read our floorboard restoration guide for the full process.

Empty the room where possible and take down curtains that reach the floor. If you need help with heavy pieces, let us know when booking. Our guide to preparing your home has more tips.

A normal plug socket and parking close by is all we need. Our machines run on domestic power, and we bring all tools, materials and dust sheets.

In most cases, yes. We deep clean, sand and treat the boards with a UV-resistant decking oil that restores the warm timber tone and reduces slipperiness. See our decking restoration service.

We work on decking from spring to early autumn. The timber needs dry weather so the oil can soak in properly. Our decking guide explains how to prepare.

Once a year is a good rule of thumb. Decks in strong sun or under trees may need it sooner. Regular oiling stops the wood drying out and greying.

Yes — we replace rotten or split boards before sanding. Replacement boards are matched as closely as possible once the whole deck is oiled.

We match the species, width and age of your boards wherever possible. After sanding and finishing the whole area, repairs are very hard to spot. Learn more about wood floor repairs.

Most creaks are caused by boards moving on their fixings. We re-secure boards with screws and fix any movement in the joists below. Read about why floors squeak.

In many cases. Light marks often sand away, while badly swollen or stained boards are replaced and blended in. The floor must be fully dry first, so we may check moisture levels before starting.

When wear is only in the finish, a deep clean and fresh coat can bring it back. It is quicker and cheaper than sanding and keeps the floor protected. See re-oiling.

Most homes re-oil high-traffic rooms every 12–24 months. Bedrooms often last several years. Our maintenance guide helps you judge.

Yes, if the scratches are only in the lacquer. We screen the surface, clean it and apply a new coat of lacquer, restoring the sheen without a full sand.

Vacuum or sweep regularly and mop with a damp, well-wrung mop and a pH-neutral wood soap. Avoid steam mops and harsh cleaners. Read our care guide for a simple routine.